We Found Nemo!

[Preface: This was originally sent out as an email on 28 May 2004 from Koh Phi Phi, Thailand. I (Dave) have made some minor stylistic edits to the original. Click on the pictures to enlarge.]

The last two weeks have been quite busy (which is why we have postponed our ‘weekly’ update). Since we arrived in Chiang Mai, we have travelled at a dizzying pace. To begin with, we did a two-day mountain trek in northern Thailand (which included riding elephants, climbing Thailand’s highest peak, and bamboo rafting), staying the night in a Karon hilltribe village (with the villagers of course). This was a fantastic opportunity to experience some of the pristine rainforests throughout northern Thailand, and we were afforded great views of surrounding peaks from high vantage points. Staying with the villagers also gave us a unique cultural experience. After trekking to the village all day, we were cooked a meal by our guides (some were members of the tribe we stayed with), and then our evening entertainment was a choir made up of village children singing traditional tribal (kids’) songs. We were also coaxed into singing a Canadian song with two other Quebecois who were part of our trek team. To accomodate their lack of english (and to demonstrate the multilinguicality of Canada) we sang ‘Frere Jacques’. When we were finished, the tribal children sang a song in their language to the same tune! Once the childrens choir left, one of our tribal guides serenaded us with his guitar, performing (of all things) ‘Wonderful Tonight’ by Eric Clapton and ‘I Wanna Hold Your Hand’ by the Beatles! Given that english was his third language, it was understandable that a few words were wrong and those that were right seemed to run into each other due to lack of diction. Nevertheless, we were quite surprised to hear these songs performed by a thai hilltribe villager! I suppose this experience just reinforced for me the ubiquity of western culture.

As an aside: during the trek, we met two Aussie couples who happened to have a very similar travelling itinerary to our own. As a result, we have travelled for most of the past week with our new friends, giving us some much needed english-speaking company. It has certainly been great being able to share our experiences with friends.

After our mountain-top experience, we decided to immerse ourselves in a very important aspect of authentic thai culture: food. To do so, we took a one-day thai cooking course, which included a visit to the local food market and dish preparation of 6 different dishes. Not only did we make the dishes; we put our work to the test, eating every single one of them in a 6- hour span. While the food tasted excellent, it became gradually more difficult to finish our dishes. The school’s ad line was ‘our food is guaranteed to make you look pregnant’; we sure came close!

After our time in Chiang-Mai, we headed south for the last (and the most-anticipated by Barb) leg of our trip: Thailand’s beautiful islands and beaches. We began in Phuket (pronounced ‘poo-KET’), but were quite disappointed. The beaches were very tourist-oriented; the streets were laden with neon lights, bars, and over-zealous bar-girls (you catch my drift?). We were able to find a resort that provided some semblance of refuge, but after two days, we decided to move on to Ko Phi Phi (‘ko-pee-pee’) (which is where we are currently). But not before we both did our first bungee-jump (50 metres; it was fantastic)!

Ko Phi Phi is the exact opposite of Phuket. Although there is much tourist marketing for the island (its status is also heightened by the fact that the movie The Beach was filmed on one of the islands), the island has a much more laid back feel. For starters, it is devoid of motorised vehicles; the only modes of transportation around the island are feet or boat. The ‘tourist’ village is quite small (one small strip of restaurants, clothes stalls, and dive shops); kinda like Jordan with a beach. The small size of the island also means that there are fewer tourists than Phuket. All this has translated into feeling more relaxed. But this doesn’t mean we have laid around on the beach all day.

Our first day, we went for a short snorkling trip in one of the islands bays. From the surface, it appeared we might be disappointed, but once underwater, we were amazed by the quantity of marine life we encountered. We became so enthralled with the underwater experience that we decided (spur-of-the-moment) to take a course and get our PADI SCUBA diver’s certification! This meant a half-day of class (SCUBA and related theory), half-day of confined water training (practical skill learning), and two open water dives. The open water dives were clearly the highlight of the course. We were able to do two 50 minute dives around islands that were teeming with fish and coral. It was here that we encountered Nemo (and a few of his friends as well); it was like watching the movie all over again. It really is a whole new world underwater (to concur with the little mermaid), one that is ostensibly much more colourful and intricate than the one we experience above water. As we reflect on the experience, we are both quite shocked, as neither of us had any aspirations to dive, never mind do a course to get certified! Nevertheless, the experience has hooked us, and we will probably look for many more dive experiences in the future (possibly as soon as next week).

Tomorrow we head over to the Gulf of Thailand, and another set of islands. At this point, we only have 10 more days here in SEA. We look forward to coming home, yet we are somewhat sad to be coming so close to the end.

ps. We apologize for the synopsis-like feel of this email (compared to the others), but we felt constrained by the fact that it was hard to pack two weeks of activity in a short(-ish) email and that we are finding it increasingly difficult to find time to sit in front of the computer given the pace of the last few days. Also, email access was much cheaper in Cambodia and the email cafes in Thailand are not air-con! Cheers.

Archaeology and Tourism

[Preface: This was originally sent out as an email on 16 May 2004 from Siem Riep, Cambodia. I (Dave) have made some minor stylistic edits to the original. Click on the photo to enlarge.]

Barb and I spent much of the past week in Siem Reap. This sleepy little provincial town is the gateway to the Angkor Archaeological Park, a heavily concentrated area of ancient (ca. 800-1300 AD/CE) Khmer temple ruins. For a little background: the modern-day Kingdom of Cambodia is the direct descendent of the ancient Khmer Empire, which ruled much of Southeast Asia at its zenith. Inspired by devotion to the Hindu gods and the Buddha (the empire waivered in its official allegiance), many of the Khmer emperors built temples, palaces, and monasteries of monumental proportions, leaving a legacy in stone. These buildings are currently in various states of dis/repair; many of them lay in utter ruin; some are currently undergoing reconstruction efforts; and a few stand in great shape (considering their age). To say the least, the greatest of these temples are awe-inspiring and are rightly hailed as some of the world’s ancient architectural wonders, alongside the Egyptian pyramids, ancient Greek and Roman buildings, and the ruins of the ancient South American civilizations. The crown jewel of the Angkor collection is Angkor Wat, hailed as the largest religious structure in the world (although it sees much more tourist activity than religious activity these days). (As an aside, those who have seen Lara Croft: Tomb Raider would recognize Angkor Wat as the temple in the background of the last scene.) Today, the Angkor ruins are a testament to the creative genius and fervent devotion of the ancient Khmers.

Unfortunately, this once-sublime collection of ancient wonders has succumbed to the tourist impulse. As with Niagara Falls (an example most should be familiar with), the temples of Angkor no longer stand amidst pristine forest and colourful wildlife, but amidst souvenir stalls, elephant ride booths, and incessant sales pitches. Across the street from the most heavily-toured ruins are makeshift bazaar/bizarre-like setups, each stall selling cheap, mass-produced, ready-to-wear tourist kitsch in an attempt to capitalize on the tourist boom. In addition, each souvenir stall is accompanied by a food stall, each with the same menu. It is impossible to pass any of these stalls without being mauled by children and adults alike, each more than willing to sell you the package of postcards you already have 5 of or a third bottle of water. Lunch time seems to be every time for the stall owners, as we have had pleas to eat (a second) lunch at their stall at 8.30, 10.30, 2.30, and 4.30. In addition to the sales pitches from stall owners, one must always be wary of kids who will accompany you through the temples unsolicited, give you tidbits of historical information from time to time, and then ask for money at the end of your stay as a ‘tour guide fee’. The persistence of these salespeople is enough to prolong visits inside any of the temples just to avoid the commotion outside.

Being in Angkor and Siem Reap (which is increasingly becoming a tourist trap in its own right) makes one thing glaringly obvious about the Cambodian tourist industry: they have little to no understanding about the mechanics of a consumer-driven economy (which, after all, is what a tourist economy is). First and foremost is the fact that Cambodians have no concept of product diversification. Thus, it is possible to walk past 100 stalls and see the same silks, t-shirts, and books 100 times, all at the same price. The only reason one might buy something from a stall is not the uniqueness of the product being sold, but simply that the impulse to buy something hits while in front of a particular stall. This makes market shopping a little tedious, as it feels more like riding a merry-go-round past the same 4 stalls than stolling through a collection of 200 stalls. I now see why those who get the best bargains are those with the most patience; they are able to endure the tedium in the hopes that somewhere amidst the rough they will find their diamond.

After 12 days in Cambodia, we have come back to Thailand via Bangkok. Our arrival in BKK felt different this time compared to the first time. Whereas before we felt as though we we eagles being thrown out of the nest for the first time, this time coming back to BKK felt like a sort of homecoming. Barb described it best when she mentioned that, after Cambodia, there was so much about BKK that was familiar. We had an overwhelming sense that we were able to relax because we had been through many of the experiences before.

In addition, coming from Cambodia to BKK made us realize just how westernized the city was. There were the ubiquitous shopping malls, the plethora of fast-food joints, and hordes of metred taxis, none of which could be found in Cambodia. As we spent the day at one of the city’s malls yesterday (getting our ‘western culture fix’), we recognized just how familiar many things were, yet… how unfamiliar as well. In a sense, it’s like Seinfeld’s ‘bizarro-world’: you know when you are in a McDonald’s, yet you cannot read any of the signs; many of the products are the same, yet you cannot read the labels; the music being played is sung in english, but the heads nodding to it are thai. The kicker for us was going to the movies (we saw Troy); the theatre was state-of-the-art (better than most i’ve been to at home), yet not only did we sit through 30 minutes of advertisements (all in thai), but just before the movie started, we all stood to pay our respects to the thai king! Very different.

Anyway, we move on to Chiang Mai in the north of Thailand today for cooking classes, thai massage, and night-time market wandering. cheers.

Cambodian Road Rules

[Preface: This was originally sent as an email on 10 May 2004 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia. I (Dave) have made minor stylistic edits to the original. Click on the photo to enlarge.]

(This is actually my second try at this; the first time the computer cut seconds before i was going to send it. just another of the many lessons in patience we have received!)

Those of you who find yourself cursing at perpetually red traffic lights, slow drivers, and speed limits, Phnom Penh may be the place for you. Cambodian traffic is governed by only one rule: don’t let another vehicle hit you! Seriously… to the uninitiated bystander, PP traffic resembles a nighttime swarm of moths under a porch light: chaotic to say the least. For example, simply entering an intersection is equivalent to vehicular Russian roulette: you never know if it will be the last time you enter an intersection. Barb and I have driven throughout much of the city and have seen traffic lights at only four intersections (and these only provide minimal guidance); every where else, vehicles merge into traffic as it is possible, and sometimes when it appears impossible. It is not out of the ordinary to see a moto (125cc motorbike) turn left into oncoming traffic in an attempt to merge into the right hand lane. Many times we have seen an intersection flooded with vehicles from all four directions only to sort itself out minutes later. Much of the potential tension caused by this situation is alleviated by the fact that 75% of the vehicles on the road are motos (easy to manoeuver and drive in between oncoming vehicles), many who drive between 20-40 km/h.

Once on the back of a moto, the governing principle behind PP traffic becomes clear: survival of the fittest (driver, that is). The best drivers are clearly the ones who are able to avoid the most PCSs (Potential Collision Situations). Thankfully, we were able to hook up with a great driver. His name is Thou (as in two), he speaks great english, and knows practically every place and person (including tourists, many who are ‘his customers’) in the city, so he ended up being a great guide in addition to a safe driver. We were fortunate enough to have him on retainer (he gave us his cell number and dropped everything when we called) for the last week, which meant we were guaranteed a ride. He even went so far as to hook us up with drivers once we got to Siem Reap. Anyone planning on visiting Phnom Penh should be sure to get his number from us (or email); he is always looking for new Canadian customers!

PP is a city with amazing provincial charm. Much of the French colonial architecture is still standing (though some of it is in rough shape) along with many traditional Khmer buildings. The best example of this is along the Tonle Sap river. the street scape here could easily be exchanged with a scene from a provincial French town, with its sidewalk cafes and lush boulevards (except exchange the French people for Cambodians). Integrated throughout are traditional Khmer wats (temples), including the headquarters of the Cambodian Buddhist hierarchy. The crown jewel of this area is the royal palace, a dazzling array of colour and flare.

Yet, the greatest contributing factor to PP’s charm is its people. In Cambodia, life is lived in the streets and public places (a fair estimate would say that approx 85-90% of the city’s pop. is out-of-doors during sunlight hours). As a result, a walk through any part of the city provides multiple snapshots into Cambodian life. The streets are places of work, play, debate, and most importantly, meals. The air is abuzz with chatter, laughter and singing (and honking horns; it is safe to say that drivers use their horns more than their brakes). It is not surprising to find groups gathered in the shade to avoid the midday heat, or families and friends gathered at the curbside for an evening meal. Scantily clad children abound accompanied by watchful grandparents. Life here is lived at a different pace; the western cliche ‘time is money’ certainly does not apply. Time is savoured here, taken in with long slow draughts. Above all, relationship is paramount. Every activity is social: work is more about finding pleasure being with co workers than bringing home a paycheck. Meals are inevitably community affairs, each bringing what s/he can to the potluck. It is impossible to speed up Cambodians; they will do what they need to do at their pace.

However, the streets of PP also tell about the darkside of Cambodian life. To begin with, most streets are unpaved and littered with garbage heaps. In many neighbourhoods, the streets are lined with buildings that still bear the scars of the Khmer Rouge regime (1975-79) and much of the city’s housing is comprised of tightly packed shanties precariously built upon stilts (to avoid seasonal flood waters). Also, many people on the streets have resorted to begging (or employing their children as beggars, since they are much more skilled in the fine art of pulling heartstrings); The most tragic element of street life is the rampant sex toursim (which is only thinly veiled). Many parents have sold their children to the streets to be exploited by tourists in an attempt to earn money for the family. Improvement of these conditions does not appear to be on the way, as Cambodia finds itself increasing embroiled in political corruption.

All in all, one week in PP has been enough to make a lasting impression; it is an unforgettable experience. Today we moved on to Siem Reap (and the famed Angkor temple ruins) for a few days of archaeological exploration. We head back to PP on Friday.

If you have read this far, thanks. We look forward to hearing from you. Cheers; until next time (I better send this quick before the computer has a chance to cut out again!)…

Update from Bangkok

[Preface: This was originally sent out as an email on 3 May 2004 from Bangkok, Thailand. I (Dave) have made minor stylistic edits to the original. Click on the photo to enlarge.]

Where to begin?! Our third full day in Bangkok is coming to an end, and tomorrow morning we move on to Phnom Penh (the capital of Cambodia). What to say? BKK (Bangkok) has given us massive sensory overload; to put it into perspective, imagine the sights, sounds, and smells you might experience walking around Manhattan (those who have been can imagine this better, but most should have a general idea), and multiply that picture by 10 and you would come close to BKK… it never ends. It has been a thoroughly overwhelming experience: the markets, the temple areas (today was a Buddhist holiday, so you can imagine the festivites around the temples), the traffic, the food, on, and on.

BKK is a study in stark contrast. It is not uncommon to see multi-million dollar glass and steel skyscrapers standing next to various and sundry shanties stacked on top of each other. This is especially true along the main river; however, the phenomenon is not exclusive to any part of the city. Here abject poverty and excessive wealth stand hand in hand, each magnifying the other extreme. It is a very sobering experience.

A stroll through any of the market areas (which are just about everywhere, both informal and formal) reveals one of the deep values of thai culture (I suspect this is true of other asian cultures as well): community. Market participation is a truly communal venture; every family member is involved, playing a role appropriate to one’s stature in the family. Kids hauling merchandise from one place to another or acting as de facto salespeople; parents negotiating and exchanging; grandparents looking after infants and toddlers. Because of this communal feeling, the markets have an extremely social feel; Family life is intermingled with work life (most market merchants probably work 12-14 hrs/day), and the market atmosphere has a (somewhat) relaxed ebb and flow. it is clear that selling (anything you can think of can be bought here for any price you can imagine) is a high priority, but working (in any strict sense of the word) is clearly secondary to family. To be clear, this community ethos is not some idealist utopian balance of work and play; I think there are unhealthy consequences (manipulation by wealthy tourists, child exploitation, parents selling their children for profit, i.e., sex tourism); it’s simply an environment that is very different from the one we are used to.

(Sidebar: I am currently sitting in an internet cafe, and a dog is standing behind me barking ceaselessly. Animals seem to have no bounds here. our hotel lobby is constantly full of cats.)

For those who are interested in the shopping scene, the markets are good for picking up goods for VERY cheap. For example, the other day, I bought 4 name brand (e.g., O’neill, Ripcurl, Billabong) t-shirts for a total of $15. At home, one of these might be worth $30+. This proved to be good for us since we opted not to bring clothes from home in hopes of being able to buy our travelling wardrobe. Also, we have discovered the convenience and comfort of thai fishing pants (one-size-fits-all that are baggy and light; great in the thailand heat) (the dog just walked under my legs!); many of you will know what we mean when you see them once we come home. Thai merchants are very friendly and respectful, albeit persistent.

So, we are off to Cambodia tomorrow. We plan on being in Phnom Penh for 5-6 days, and then spending 3-4 days in Siem Reap to check our the Angkor Wat temple ruins. Should be great! We would love to hear from you if you are at all inclined to write; however, do not expect prompt replies… we think that coming over here to spend as much (or maybe more) time on the internet as we would at home would be poor use of our time! Until next time…